On the runway, designer Anna Sui is renowned for her deft use of
materials and textures, as well as her masterful command of prints and
patterns. She possesses a dark and elegant sense of femininity that
permeates everything from her flagship SoHo store to her exquisite
makeup line.
Since the early ‘80s, Sui has played a pivotal role in the New York
fashion world— casual friends include fashion industry legends Steven
Meisel, Garren, François Nars, and Naomi Campbell. However, it wasn’t
until 1999 that Anna Sui brought her beauty products to life. Her
packaging mirrors the interior of her world, complete with
black-lacquered containers decorated with ornate roses and intricate
detailing. If you don't own a vanity yet, these makeup collectibles will
definitely make you want to get one.
Anna is a master of contrast; dark and delightful, playful and
avant-garde all at once. From the clawfoot legs of her powder container
to the intoxicating rose fragrance of her nail lacquers, every item is a
little bit of paradise. Using each piece makes you feel special,
beautiful and for a moment, transported to her world.
Anna took time from her busy schedule to discuss how she entered the
fashion world, what inspires the brand, and how she translated her
vision into makeup.
B: What initially sparked your interest in fashion?
As a child, I remember reading an article in
Life Magazine
about two girls who graduated from Parsons School of Design in New York
City. They then moved to Paris, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard
Burton opened a boutique for them. As a kid, you think
wow, you’ve found the Magic Ticket...all
you have to do is move to New York and go to Parsons…everything will
fall into place. The funny thing was, years later when I went back and
re-read that article, I realized that one of the girl’s fathers was the
legendary photographer Irving Penn—which might have given her certain
advantages. But that was my original fantasy!
B: Tell us about your universe—what inspires the Anna Sui brand, and how do makeup and beauty fit into the picture?
The first Dolly Head [Anna’s brand mascot] I envisioned was fashioned
after the adorable way Liza Minnelli looked as the character Sally
Bowles in
Cabaret, with her iconic widow’s peak bangs, false
eyelashes, beauty spot, and ribbon choker—and her green nail varnish
that she describes as
divine decadence! Her look was always an inspiration to me…nostalgic bohemian.
B: At what point did you decide to branch into beauty?
When I started my own beauty line, I felt the whole cosmetic industry
had become so staid. I was longing for something more fantasy-oriented.
I wanted women to feel free to experiment—to have more fun, to not take
themselves so seriously, to opt for a little glamour. It was such a
thrill to imagine a collection that would include everything I’ve always
loved about makeup, everything I personally use daily and all the
colors and special effects that I’m currently obsessed with.
B: Your runway style is very feminine combined with a little
darkness. Describe the interplay between your makeup and clothing
designs?
I’m known for the contradictions I incorporate into my work. I wrap
sweet, feminine looks with romantic nostalgia…always mixed with the hip,
trendy touch of rock-and-roll coolness. It’s all about that ambiguity,
the good girl / bad girl thing.
B: You're famous for innovative textiles and prints—do those elements inform the makeup as well?
My quest has always been to create cosmetics incorporating all the
colors and textures of my memories and dreams. Glitter is one of my
favorite special effects; and I imagined it in shades and colors far
beyond anyone’s wildest imagination.
B: Do you have any favorites from the line?
I adore the latest glittered blue Nail Color No. 110, the Rose Cheek Color and the Loose Face Powder. These were developed to be the staples of my own beauty routine.
B: How did you decide on the lavender and black-lacquered look of your packaging and vanity accessories?
I must have always known that I’d one day be doing a cosmetic
collection! I had carefully saved all my favorite empty bottles and
tubes of makeup my whole life. For my own line, the design is based on
the furniture I use in my boutiques, and the lavender comes from the
color I paint the walls. I collect Victorian Louis XV-revival “Bombe”
chairs, armoires, and vanities festooned with carved roses. I always
paint them glossy black. I loved the idea of creating cosmetic
containers and packaging that had this look—like miniature dollhouse
furniture. You’d have to find another use for them, or just keep them to
decorate your vanity. The boxes had to do the same thing, be more
beautiful and collectable than any other packaging you’ve ever seen. I
wanted everything to be so special, down to the inclusion of my favorite
tea rose scent.
B: What is coming up next for Anna Sui Cosmetics?
Next year will mark the 15th anniversary of the launch of my
cosmetics line, so keep an eye out for upcoming releases! The new
products will feel exciting and inspiring to make makeup more fun than
ever!
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